Let's start with the fact that flushing is needed in order to clean the parts and internal walls of the engine from deposits. What deposits are and what type they are, you can read in the article - Any deposits in the engine can be considered harmful - deposits in the engine should not be! And in most cases, the engine needs to be washed.

There are four main ways to flush the engine

Method 1. Engine disassembly and manual cleaning with washing of parts with special means.

At the service station or with a friend in the garage, you can disassemble the engine, clean every detail with a technical solvent (tanning beds, kerosene, solvent, etc.). This method is perhaps the fastest and most effective, but also the most time-consuming. I'm not talking about the need for a special room - a garage, certain conditions and knowledge. Not every car enthusiast has a warm garage, the ability and skill to disassemble, clean and assemble an internal combustion engine back. That is why there are special means for flushing the engine, which will be discussed below. It should be noted that there are cases when flushing an engine with flushes is harmful and dangerous, as well as starting it in general. Therefore, in some cases, manual engine cleaning is the only option! For example, in this case:

That is, nothing will help here, except to disassemble and clean everything manually, along the way to analyze wear and tear and the possibility of further use of this engine.

Method 2. Flushing oils.

Designed for flushing the lubrication systems of automobile engines without their disassembly, when changing engine oil. Flushing oils have gained immense popularity in Russia. In the West, in mind the mentality "why would I spend extra money?" flushing oils have not gained much popularity.

Usually, flushing oil is an ordinary mineral, the simplest and cheapest oil - mineral water (why is it expensive there? Don’t drive it.), To which detergent additives and anti-wear additives are added.

Here is a laboratory analysis of Lukoil flushing oil

That is, according to the analysis, we see that antiwear additives (Zinc phosphorus) and detergent neutralizing additives (calcium) are added. They are added in a much lower content than in standard motor oils. In fact, this flush is in order to mix with the old oil that cannot be drained (in the crankcase as well as engine parts are still in dirty oil) and neutralize the acidic environment in the engine. All this merges with flushing - this is the main and main purpose of flushing oil. I'm afraid that it is not capable of washing a dirty engine in sludge or varnish ...

The principle of using flushing oils is something like this: Started the car, drove for 10-20 minutes at idle, drained the used engine oil, filled in the flushing oil in the same filling volume required by the automaker for engine oil, drove at idle for 10-20 minutes, drained the flushing oil and filled with fresh oil.

In the West, flushing oils have not taken root and are not in demand, there on the shelves you will not see flushing oils (for civil vehicles) of the brands Mobil, Shell, Castrol, etc. (BP met in Japan) - manufacturers voice the standard opinion “When using our motor oils, flush no engine required! And in their own way, motor oil manufacturers are right. If you buy a new car in a car dealership, change the oil more often (sometimes even more often than the official dealer requires), pour good gasoline, then deposits will not appear in the engine! Why waste money? Spend it on ice cream for the kids! But unfortunately, not everyone has new cars, not everyone got a clean engine, and the intervals are not always strictly observed. It is for such cases that flushing oils exist.

In Russia, flushing oils are presented in a sufficient range. Because demand, in this case, gave rise to supply. For example, a very serious and large domestic company, Lukoil, does not consider it shameful to produce something that world manufacturers of motor oils disown. Also on the market are the brands Spectrol, Felix, Novoufimsky Refinery, XADO Verylube, Luxe, Volga oil, Sibtek, Unico, Rosneft, G-energy, ZIC, etc.

To pour or not to pour flushing oils - decide for yourself! I decided for myself that I don’t need them “money down the drain!”, And I adhere to the version “with reasonable shift intervals, flushing oils, like flushings, are not needed.” But if you overstayed your oil change interval, for example, or bought a car with an unknown oil change history, flushing oil can help clean up acid residue that doesn't drain.

Method 3. Flushing the oil system or "five minutes".

There are also special “five-minute” flushes that are poured into the old oil when changing, the engine is allowed to run for 5-10-20 minutes (read the instructions!) And drained along with the used oil.

Among motorists in the Internet community, the generally accepted opinion is - "flushing" five minutes "- EVIL!" There are horror stories on the forums that “Five minutes wash off the pieces that fall off, clog the oil channels, clog the filter, the oil receiver mesh and the engine fails!” “Five minutes have a detrimental effect on gaskets and seals - and after flushing the engine will definitely “run”” “five minutes are not compatible with your future oil, they remain in the crankcase with a non-draining residue and spoil the next oil, as well as your engine”. I will not argue with these statements, especially since I myself once had the same opinion, I will simply show it clearly and lead the reader to a conclusion. See everything for yourself and with your own eyes!

Again we ask ourselves, does any of the manufacturers of motor oils make five minutes? There are Shell, Valvoline, Wynn's, Liqui Moly, Motul on sale - that is, some manufacturers, paying attention to the demand of motorists in a particular country, still release five-minutes. I conducted two demonstrative experiments with washes of two well-known and fairly respected brands. Liqui Moly and Motul.

I conducted two demonstrative experiments with washes of two well-known and fairly respected brands. Liqui Moly and Motul.

Experiment 1 washing "10-minute" (German name Liqui Moly Pro-Line Motorspulung).

A 1994 Toyota Curren with a 3s-fe engine. The engine inside is very dirty - deposits such as varnish and sludge. We open the valve cover, photograph the condition under the valve cover - BEFORE. Then we drive with short shift intervals, applying a “five-minute” flush between shifts Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush. With this procedure, strictly follow the instructions on the bank. If it says “10 minutes at idle speed of the engine”, then we do it - this is important!

This amateur experiment, however, dragged on for exactly 1 year. The mode is mostly city traffic and some highways. The engine oil used was the North American Petro-Canada Supreme 5W-30 and Chevron Supreme 5W-30, common for gasoline engines with API SM (commonly semi-synthetic, but in fact a mineral water of the 2nd API group.). Gasoline was used the same from one refueling.

In this case, the interval between changes of 1500-2000 km was not chosen by chance - for the speed of the experiment and less influence on the experiment of the engine oil itself. 5 washings of the engine oil system were carried out - it took 5 cans. We open the engine and photograph the result

ExpCase 2 flushing 15 minutes Motul Engine Clean.

The car is the same Toyota Curren '94, 3s-fe engine. The mode is the same - city 80% and highway 20%.

5 shifts made, 5 wash cans used.
Toyota 5W30 SM + Motul Engine Clean = 3000km
Petro-Canada Supreme 5W30 SM + Motul Engine Clean = 3000km
Petro-Canada Duron Synthetic 0W30 + Motul Engine Clean = 3000km
Mobil1 0W40 Life + Motul Engine clean = 3000km
Petro-Canada Supreme 5W30 SM + Motul Engine Clean = 1000km

Comparing photos BEFORE and you can draw certain conclusions about the effectiveness of oil system flushes.

The reader may have a doubt “But what about the oil filter? After all, he will score! As the opening of each filter after each washing showed - inside they were clean - there were no serious accumulations!

And how does the engine feel after such flushes? Fine! Nothing ran anywhere and did not break - enough time has passed. Furthermore! I did a laboratory analysis of engine oil for wear metals - the engine showed near zero wear.

Another example from our other forum member Belkovoda. A video where it is clearly shown how the “five-minute” washings are washed. They opened the engine, saw deposits, put it back together, washed it with a 15-minute flush according to the instructions, and opened it to see “What has changed?” And nothing has changed! This is not a miracle flush. In general, see for yourself in the video:

Method 4. Flushing with engine oil - as the most gentle flush.

There is also flushing the oil system with ordinary engine oil - in which nothing will definitely happen. This flush will be compatible with your engine, seals, gaskets, your future oil, etc.

The method is very simple: fill in your usual motor oil or the cheapest mineral water, the brand that you usually prefer (so as not to spend money), ride 500-1000 km on this oil and drain it. That's all! Just in case, you can change the oil filter. But there is one big BUT! Engine oil has a very low detergency! In fact, it can only endure particles that have already come off the walls - and the engine, as it was dirty, will remain so - or it takes a lot of time and thousands of kilometers according to the principle “water wears away stone”. You can sharpen this stone even 500 thousand km - which negates the engine oil flush. Do not think that you filled in oil, skated 1000 km and everything inside you shines. If the deposits are really serious, everything will remain the same as it was! I devoted a separate article to washing with engine oil, since I have many years of experience - I set up such experiments.

Conclusion

And so we have listed 4 main ways to flush the oil system. The most important thing to decide for yourself is whether you need to flush the engine?
Take a flashlight, unscrew the oil filler cap, look inside (or rather, remove the valve cover). If there is pure metal, then you have a clean engine and most likely you do not need any flushing. The neck walls are the same inner wall of the engine as all the others, moreover, located at the very top. Remember - flushing must have a base!

First, we make a diagnosis and answer ourselves the question: engine dirty or clean? And then we decide to treat or leave it as it is!

Washing a clean engine with flushes “For the sake of prevention” does not make sense! You spend money… It is better and more efficient in this case to change the oil not after 10,000 km, but after 7500 km! A clean engine will feel much better than after 10 thousand km with flushes!

For the past thirty years, car owners have been arguing whether to flush the engine when changing the oil? Let's try to delve into the history of the issue. For the first time, washing the engine oil system was introduced back in the USSR to clean the lubrication system of large diesel locomotives. We have developed a special flushing liquid - a low-viscosity mineral oil enriched with detergent components. Approximately half an hour of work on such a flushing oil made it possible to remove a certain amount of sludge and soot contamination from the engine. As a result, the performance of the lubrication system and oil pressure were restored, fuel consumption dropped somewhat and engine life increased. Entrepreneurial (already then) people decided to transfer this flushing technology to passenger car engines and away we go. During Soviet times, motor oil was in short supply, rarely sold in stores and on tap at gas stations. The quality of the oils of that time was such that by a run of 50-60 thousand km, the Zhiguli engines were already clogged with carbon deposits. Oil filters were also in short supply, even collapsible Zhiguli filters with a replaceable filter element became widespread. The shortage and poor quality of filters also provoked increased engine pollution.

Approximately in the mid-80s, the first flushing oils began to go on sale, at the same time, the automotive press, the magazine Za Rulem, began educational work on the benefits of flushing the engine with special flushing oil (full-volume flushing).

In Europe, they also faced engine pollution, but went a slightly different way. Petroleum oils, which were used to flush the engine when changing oil in the USSR, turned out to be expensive for Europe. And it turned out to be expensive to dispose of a double amount of hydrocarbons (flushing + old engine oil). Therefore, special cleaning additives were developed, components that enhance the cleaning properties of old engine oil spoiled by operation. Such flushes are added to the old oil before it is replaced, the engine runs on a “cocktail” for ten minutes, then the old oil, along with contaminants, is drained and disposed of. The capitalists have calculated everything, the efficiency of the washing-additives turned out to be higher than that of the flushing oil, and the cost of the washing procedure is lower. The safety of the flushing procedure also turned out to be on top, since the flushing additives, in addition to detergent components, include protective, anti-seize additives that protect the engine during the flushing process. In addition, after using the additive flush, there is practically no mineral oil left in the engine, which forms the basis of a full-volume flush, and the solvent residues on which the additive flushes are based disappear when the engine warms up.

Gradually, by the beginning of the 21st century, the problem of engine pollution in Europe has lost its relevance, at the same time, in Russia, on the contrary, it has worsened. The reasons were the quality of gasoline, and the inability of modern car owners to properly handle equipment, and, at times, the use of counterfeit oils. It was at this time that the European approach to flushing engines during an oil change became widespread in Russia. Consumers have realized the benefits of a clean engine: First, flushing the engine during an oil change saves engine life and reduces sudden lubrication failures. Secondly, flushing, with its low cost and speed of the procedure, saves fuel, since a clean engine is easier to spin and work more efficiently. According to some companies, engine pollution can reduce its efficiency by 20-30%.

Currently, there is an irreversible trend in the automotive industry to switch to low-viscosity and ultra-low-viscosity motor oils. This is done to further save fuel in order to meet the latest environmental standards not only for harmful substances, but also for greenhouse gas emissions (CO 2 and water in the form of steam). To use liquid oils, the engine is being finalized, especially pay attention to the refinement of the piston. Under the oil scraper rings on the piston there are drainage holes that drain excess oil during engine operation. To use low viscosity oils, these holes are made very thin, and they become extremely sensitive to even small contaminants. Contamination of the drain holes leads to very rapid coking of the rings, which is so characteristic of modern engines. The only countermeasure against this phenomenon is regular flushing of the oil system with every oil change. So the engine flushing technology, invented for diesel locomotives and slightly modified, is now in great demand.

What to wash?

There are two types of contaminants in an engine. The first and most common type is varnish pollution.. Varnishes are formed on heated engine parts, on pistons, rings, valve stems, they can cover engine parts with a coating, in color from light straw to dark brown. Lacquer pollution is not always possible to determine visually. Their indirect signs are increased oil consumption, smoke, reduced operating pressure in the oil system, valve jamming, etc. Causes: chronic overheating of the engine, low-grade fuel, features of the engine oil used, design flaws, violation of the operating mode, etc. Lacquer contamination is washed off in two stages.

The first step is to use a 5 or 10 minute intensive flush added to the old oil. The second stage, pouring fresh oil with good washing properties, for the final removal of contaminants softened after washing. In this case, the oil change interval should be reduced by about half. A simple consumer may need expert advice. Liqui Moly GmbH's 10-minute flushes such as Oilsystem Spulung High Performance Benzin (gasoline engine flush) and Oilsystem Spulung High Performance Benzin Diesel (diesel engine flush) are a good choice for removing varnish contamination, as well as a professional flushing agent engine Pro-Line Motorspulung . Pro-Line Motorspulung is so strong that it can remove carbon deposits on pistons due to the effective action of flushing vapors, and is used in both gasoline and diesel engines.

The second type of pollution is oil sludge.. Usually, black sludge is very visible if you remove the oil filler cap and look inside the engine. If the metal is covered with a black coating, then this is sludge. Sludge is formed from low-quality oil, exceeding oil change intervals, when using low-quality fuel and when water condensate or antifreeze gets into the oil. The presence of sludge is a signal for action, you need to clean the engine until particles of sludge get into friction pairs, onto the oil receiver grid and block the supply of fresh oil. It will not be possible to wash off the sludge quickly, since they are not formed instantly, but gradually. To remove sludge, a gentle, long-acting rinse must be used so that pieces of dirt do not break off the parts and cause thrombosis, but dissolve gently and safely. Flushing liquefies contaminants, allowing them to leave the engine along with the old oil.

We can recommend a special flush Liqui Moly Oil-Schlamm-Spulung. The additive must be filled in approximately 200 km before the planned oil change and roll back this run in a calm mode. During this run, the flush will reach the most secluded corners of the engine, layer by layer dissolving contaminants, transferring them to a suspended state for easy removal from the engine.

Contamination in the engine is not a sentence for a major overhaul, but an argument for using flushing before changing the oil. Regular flushing at every oil change ensures that critical contaminants do not occur, especially on modern engines designed to use low-viscosity oils. Depending on the application situation, the flushing of the oil system can be selected.

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It would seem that there are plenty of reasons to clean the internal parts of the power unit before updating the lubricant. However, some motorists still doubt whether this is worth doing. In fact, flushing the engine when changing the oil is welcomed by many specialists and car service workers.

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The main reasons for flushing the engine

There is no single answer to the question of whether it is worth flushing the crankcase. There are a lot of factors influencing this process. Every experienced motorist knows a huge number of examples when the engine functioned perfectly after a “dirty” replacement or showed signs of unstable operation. The problem only happens once and is best avoided.

It turns out that in some situations flushing is necessary, in others it is not. That is how it is. For example, if the maintenance history of the car is “clean”, all the required measures were taken in a timely manner, there is no need for flushing. The same can be said if the engine is constantly filled with oil of the same type and classification.

On the other hand, it is necessary to wash the crankcase in the following cases:

• the viscosity of the new composition is different (synthetics changes to mineral water);
• replacement is carried out after the repair of the power plant;
• the brand of the lubricant composition differs;
• on a car bought in a used condition (it is not known for certain which oil was filled in);
• gasoline or antifreeze got inside the motor.

When not to clean

In some special cases, flushing the engine when changing the oil is prohibited. Modern expensive synthetics include various useful additives. They not only lubricate the engine elements, but also clean the engine from various contaminants. After several replacements, a useful and clean layer forms on the walls of the parts and the inside of the engine. You can do the power plant a disservice if you wash it off.

Do not use "miraculous" additives. They will only worsen the properties of the native oil, mix with it, and the residual percentage of lubricant will change its structure for the worse.

Inexperienced motorists do this. They buy these supposedly magical additives, pour them into the engine, but do not change the filter. As a result, the dirt accumulated in the cleaning element breaks down and enters the lubrication system. What this leads to, we think, is not worth talking about.

You will learn more about when flushing the engine is not needed from the video from the user Denis MECHANIK.

How often should the pan be washed

Flushing must be carried out every time after a long and hard operation of the motor system of the car. The same must be done if antifreeze gets inside the power plant. In some cases, cleaning at the change is recommended as one of the ways to decarbonize the piston rings.

Thus, if the car was operated by the same owner, the same oil was poured, there are no problems with the engine, it is possible to flush the system every 200-300 thousand kilometers of the vehicle. In other cases, and under difficult engine operating conditions, it is recommended to reduce the replacement period.

Security measures

Some modern engines are so powerful that they can compete with airplanes. However, on the other hand, they can simultaneously require ultra-delicate handling, and any wrong action will lead to breakage of parts or the complete failure of the unit.

There are examples when, after using flushing, the motor stopped forever. Dismantling showed such a strong level of contamination that the deposits on the internal surfaces were as thick as an adult's finger.

A survey of the owners of these machines showed that before flushing, the engine signaled by flashing the “Check Engine” light. The emergency pressure indicator was on constantly, however, the dipstick showed a normal oil level. It was all about the degree of contamination of the motor.

Deposits may accumulate unexpectedly and in large quantities. In this case, only by mechanical hard cleaning will it be possible to cope with them. Therefore, before starting the flushing procedure, it is recommended to study the condition of the engine of your car, analyze the errors generated by the on-board computer, etc. In professional services, by the way, they do this.

The situation can be especially dangerous when the internal parts cannot cope with oil starvation. This happens in case of clogging of the oil receiver and channels. Oil does not enter the block head, although the level of the filled lubricant remains normal.

Washing methods and rules

Proper cleaning of the engine includes several stages. All of them are equally important.

1. Before the procedure, consult with a specialist. It will indicate the specific features of a particular model of the power plant.
2. Make diagnostics of all mechanisms and subsystems of the engine.
3. Properly drain and change the old fluid.
4. Properly start the engine after filling in a new lubricant composition.

There are also several processing methods. It is customary today to clean the engine with a special compound, ordinary oil, additives, etc. There are chemical, soft, full-volume and forced fluid flushes.

Washing with chemicals

For some reason, some motorists believe that flushing must be carried out using chemical compounds, although this is not so. There is simply no panacea capable of ridding a motor installation of years of deposits in just five minutes.

Chemical flushing is the use of a liquid that corrodes oil seals and seals. If the package says that the product is safe for rubber parts, then it is not aggressive enough, and there will be no effect from such cleaning.

Chemical treatment is also considered the use of "five minutes". These compositions, however, managed to get notoriety and negative reviews. Motorists complain that after their use, the piston group of the unit is damaged.

Soft wash

It implies just the use of such flushing fluids, the composition of which is less aggressive. One of the well-known manufacturers of such a composition is THK. The product being produced is called Promo Express. Suitable for flushing not only gasoline, but also diesel power units.

Soft flushing is designed to cope with minor engine contamination. If the degree of deposits is too high, the motor has not been washed for a long period of time, it is better to use other means.

Soft liquids contain solvents that dissolve contaminants. However, they do not change the viscosity of the lubricant. As a rule, it is recommended to drive no more than 200 km on soft washing. Then the liquid must be completely changed, pouring normal high-quality oil.

See the video from the author of Hi-Gear for how to use soft flush.

Full flush

The essence of the method lies in the fact that a liquid with a large number of effective additives is poured into the pan. There are compositions with a long action and "fifteen minutes". The first type of liquid is used extremely rarely today, the second is more common.

The essence of washing is similar to other cleaning methods. The liquid is mixed with the remnants of contaminants, then it all drains from the sump. It is obligatory to operate the motor in XX mode for fifteen minutes.

Flushing the engine with forced fluid circulation

The best way to flush, as it involves the use of special professional equipment. Its principle of operation is based on the use of pressure in the lubrication system, which doubles the cleaning effect.

The work is reduced to the following.

1. First, the oil filter is dismantled. In its place, a hose of the flushing installation is threaded.
2. Two other equipment tubes are mounted on the oil filler neck and the crankcase drain hole.
3. Washing liquid is poured into the installation.
4. The equipment turns on, air pressure supplies flushing fluid into the lubrication system.

The engine cannot be started with this flushing method. The liquid circulates through a filter located in the unit itself. As a result of such a run, dirt and deposits removed from the engine remain in it.

The nuances of cleaning

The expediency of carrying out this or that washing method should be clarified by the pros. Only a specialist can determine exactly how polluted the working environment of the engine is, and whether he needs a full procedure or you can get by with a soft flush, whether it is worth changing the oil or not.

Full cleaning required

Domestic motors

As a rule, domestically produced motors are characterized by less sensitive characteristics, capable of withstanding heavy loads, but at the same time low-power compared to foreign motors.

You can flush a domestic-made engine with conventional means. This is an inexpensive cleaning method, quite suitable for garage conditions.

Petrol power plants

Any gasoline, no matter how high-quality it may be, contains a certain percentage of tar-lacquer and rubber deposits. Over time, they settle on the walls of the fuel system, injector nozzles and valves.

Gasoline engines are washed by all known methods. When cleaning old deposits, the use of a special installation that supplies flushing fluid under pressure is welcome. A light degree of pollution is removed with the help of mild additives and "five minutes".

Diesel units

The diesel engine is more sensitive to flushing. It can only be cleaned with special ones designed only for such units. Do not use additives for gasoline engines!

The difference in flushing is explained by the structure of the formation of deposits. A diesel engine needs more motor lubrication in the nodes, the rubbing elements must literally "float" in the oil. Flushing fluids for gasoline ICEs are not able to provide the proper level of cleaning.

We can watch the flushing of a diesel engine with a special tool on a video from the OBK Company channel.

Which flushing fluid to choose

Today there is no shortage of products for washing the engine. On the contrary, the choice of how to flush the power unit can be complicated by too many different compounds.

Five Minute

This method is carried out using the "five minutes". This is a detergent additive that is added to old oil. It is necessary to let the motor run for several minutes, then drain the liquid along with the used lubricant.

The disadvantages of the "five minutes" include its negative effect on seals and seals. The additive is too aggressive and tends to eat through rubber surfaces. But in a short period of time, without particularly getting dirty, you can change the oil.

Flushing oil and liquid

These are products that are poured into the engine after the old grease has been completely drained. The engine should run on the flush composition for some time, always in idling mode.

The disadvantage of oil is its imperfect lubricity. The flushing fluid does not allow the engine to run above 2000 rpm. This means that when cleaning the motor with this composition, it is necessary to monitor the speed of the power plant, not to allow them to be exceeded. As a result, the pressure in the lubrication system is not sufficiently increased, and the efficiency of work is reduced.

The engine oil needs to be changed, everyone knows that. Over time, even the best lubricant loses quality and is not able to protect rubbing parts. This leads to accelerated wear of parts. Oil loses its properties according to natural principles:

1. Under the influence of high temperatures, the chemicals in the composition are oxidized.
2. Manufacturers include useful additives in modern lubricants. Additives prevent the combustion products and friction from settling on the parts. Particles of coke and metal, soot are mixed with the lubricant, and remain in suspension.

After changing the oil in the engine gradually turns from light to black. This happens because the grease accumulates contaminants. When their number exceeds the limit, the oil can no longer lubricate engine parts.

1. If the machine is operated infrequently, the oil still loses its key properties. Grease is always in contact with air. And the oxygen contained in it actively oxidizes oil products.
2. In addition, there are engine oils for different temperature conditions. Unlike all-weather, they need to be changed in spring and autumn. If the lubricant is designed for summer temperatures, then it will make it difficult to start the engine in cold weather. On the contrary, a lubricant that allows you to start in the winter may lose viscosity in the summer.

How often to change the oil

As a rule, car manufacturers recommend a replacement interval of 10,000 km. This mileage is indicated in the technical documents of the vehicle. These regulations should be observed if you rarely stand in traffic jams, use high-quality fuel, and prefer a calm driving style. Most cars are recommended to change the engine oil more frequently, at least once every 7500 km.

Here is a list of circumstances that shorten the service life and require more frequent oil changes:

• The power plant often runs at high speeds.
• The car is stuck in traffic every day. This item is relevant for all major cities.
• Low quality fuel is used.
• The car travels short distances. From starting the engine to stopping it takes less than 30 minutes.
• The car often drives on a dirt or dusty road.

If at least one of the circumstances is familiar to you, you need to change the oil more often than the car's service book requires.

How much lube is needed

For each engine, the volume of the lubrication system is individual. The exact figure is indicated in the instruction manual. The design of some motors does not allow to completely merge mining. Therefore, we recommend that you monitor the level. Please note that the level of lubrication will be higher at the operating temperature of the motor.

Even on a new car, regularly check the amount of grease in the carriage. Make it simple. Warm up the engine and turn it off. Remove the dipstick after 5 minutes. The mark should be between the upper and lower limits on the dipstick. This is the norm. However, it is not necessary to always maintain the highest level of lubrication. In striving for this, there is a danger of overflow.

It is a common misconception that excess lubricant does not lead to consequences. What can happen if you exceed the permissible level:

• Excess oil will burn out while the engine is running. At the same time, the amount of burning in the exhaust gases will instantly rise. In such conditions, lambda probes are the first to suffer, and the catalyst resource is reduced.
• The high pressure generated in the motor will damage the rubber parts of the motor. Leakage will begin through the cracks in the seals and gaskets.

To fix the damage will have to spend a round sum. Therefore, always keep an eye on the volume that you add to the engine.

Need to flush the engine when changing the oil or not

• Flushing the engine will not only wash off the dirt, but will also remove the important additives contained in the lubricant.
• After washing, the dirt from the filter will settle on the engine parts.
• The compatibility of modern oils allows you not to flush the engine even when switching from one class of lubricant to another.

In order not to fall victim to erroneous statements, let's take a closer look at each of them:

1. Engine washes do not affect the coating formed by anti-wear additives. Only those elements that are dangerous for the motor are displayed.
2. Oil recipes are unique. Each brand has its own approach and its own secrets of composition. A number of manufacturers rely on the high quality of the basis of the recipe. Other brands improve the properties of the lubricant through additives. Supplement recipes are kept secret. Therefore, the compatibility of different brands is just a myth.

It is difficult to predict how the additives of different oils will interact.

Foaming, the appearance of a resinous precipitate, and a decrease in lubricating properties are possible. To avoid such problems, when changing the manufacturer, class, viscosity of the lubricating fluid, flush before changing the engine oil.

The filter captures only insoluble particles. If the element has accumulated soluble contaminants, then the engine uses low-quality engine oil. Stay away from this kind of lubricant.

To remove soluble contaminants is the primary task of washings. Considering what kind of fuel and what lubricants we have to use, this procedure is recommended to be carried out together with each oil change.

How to flush the engine?

There is no consensus on this issue either. Supporters of flushing before changing the engine oil are divided into fans of flushing oils, express flushes and adepts of solvent and witnesses of acetone. The latter believed in the miraculous power of solvents so much that they are used for any, even the most inopportune occasion.

If we talk about the choice of flushing oils, then their use has a number of disadvantages:

• up to 20% of the oil volume remains in the engine, which cannot be drained;
• today there are only a few high-quality flushing lubricants on the market. Manufacturers save on ingredients. Therefore, they do not provide the necessary level of protection;
• rinsing with oil takes longer than using express rinsings.

The optimal washing method is the use of express washes. These are compounds, for example, 5-minutes, which speed up the process of changing the lubricant, and flush the engine. Before draining the waste, a 5-minute flush is poured into the engine so that the engine runs on the old lubricant with the addition of the drug. The composition will remove contaminants, dissolve them in the volume of oil and reduce the amount of non-drainable residue (viscosity will decrease within the acceptable range, but it will be better to merge).

There is also a soft flush of the LAVR engine. This is filled 200 km before an oil change. And just before replacing, you can use a five-minute flush. By the way, these engine flushes can be bought at.

Oil change steps

Watch the video on how to change the engine oil with your own hands.

1. First, we specify how much oil is poured into the engine. We look for information in the manual or on the Internet. Be careful, one brand of car may have several power plant options with different volumes of the oil system.
2. We start the engine and warm up to a temperature of 80-90C. We muffle.
3. Open the oil filler cap, pour a 5-minute LAVR engine flush into the engine.
4. We start the engine, let it idle for 5 minutes.
5. We roll the car into a pit, overpass or lift, turn off the engine, unscrew the oil filler cap.
6. We install a container with a volume of more than 4 liters under the drain hole. a suitable container, unscrew the plug and drain the used oil. Caution, dripping oil is hot.
7. Carefully remove the oil filter.
8. Pour a small amount of fresh oil into the new filter. We put the filter in place.
9. Change the drain plug gasket and screw it back on.
10. Pour fresh oil into the engine in parts. We monitor the level so as not to overfill. Fresh oil flows down for a long time, it takes more time for the dipstick to show the exact level. As soon as we have reached the desired level (between the upper and lower marks on the dipstick), we twist the filler neck.
11. We start the engine. We wait a few seconds until the oil pressure lamp goes out. Then let the motor run for a few minutes.
12. We turn off the engine. After 5-10 minutes, we check the amount of oil in the engine. Top up if required.

Permissible oil consumption

If for some engines oil consumption is a common occurrence, and automakers know about it. That is the normal state of other units, when between replacements the level does not drop even a millimeter. As a rule, the technical documentation contains information on the permissible oil consumption for a particular engine. Before making a diagnosis yourself, read more about the motor, perhaps your fears about the condition of the engine will be in vain.

However, if the motor began to show exorbitant appetite, and from replacement to replacement you add more than 1 liter of lubricant, there is reason to think about the condition of the cylinder-piston group and conduct professional engine diagnostics.

When changing the oil, the engine does not need to be flushed if the replacement is carried out with an oil identical to that used before. Manufacturers of high-quality oils add various additives to them that improve their properties and perform additional tasks in relation to engine parts.

In particular, oils contain additives that clean the engine, which simultaneously perform the flushing function. When using such oil products, after you drain them, engine parts shine like from a store.

But still, it is necessary to flush the engine when changing the oil in the following circumstances:

• You bought a new car and have no idea what kind of liquid is poured into the engine;
• You change the brand and viscosity index of the lubricant;
• If you suspect that antifreeze, fuel, or poor quality or unsuitable oil for the engine has entered the system.
• If in the process of repairing the engine, the cylinder head was opened.

Is flushing fluid worth it?

The modern industry, which is fighting for the indispensable flushing of the engine during oil changes, produces separate flushing fluids. These same manufacturers recommend running their products through the engine after draining the old oil and before pouring in new. Another type of flushing - the so-called five-minute flushes are added to the drained oil.

Marketers of these same flushing fluids give dozens of arguments in favor of their use, but do engines really need them?

We must not forget that motor oil - be it mineral or synthetic - is a mixture of complex chemicals. Plus, various additives. Washing is also a mixture of chemicals, but different.

You have no idea about the composition of those and other fluids, you don’t know how the oil and flushing fluid will react with each other, what will happen as a result, and how this mixture will affect the engine. Is it worth the risk?

But most importantly, all these flushes, whether you like it or not, affect the viscosity of the lubricant and the quality of the additives. How?

When draining a motor oil product, approximately 10% is retained in the system. If you fill in the flushing fluid for flushing, then it is she who remains in the engine case and mixes with the new oil. That is, another 10 percent of unknown things are added to 15 percent of factory additives, which, when mixed with oil additives, changes its chemical composition, and, consequently, its viscosity and other properties.

And where is the guarantee that as a result of all chemical reactions there will not be a “ruff” for the engine, which will first corrode the rings, and then will not take on metal parts? It is possible that fears are in most cases unfounded, but in any case, the oil will no longer work as intended by its manufacturer.

What else is harmful five-minute flushes that are poured into the engine before changing the oil? They do not fulfill their intended purpose - they are not able to dissolve and wash off the accumulated dirt.

The resulting deposits can clog the oil passages, preventing oil from reaching the engine parts. And this will lead to oil starvation of the internal combustion engine, which, running dry, will quickly fail.

Best way to flush an engine when changing oil

It is best to flush the engine when changing the oil like this:

• First, warm up the engine, and only then drain the waste oil product. Take your time, give the liquid time to flow out as much as possible. If possible, if the machine is mounted on a lift, tilt it so that more waste fluid will flow out of the system.
• Change the oil filter and fill with fresh oil. For two days, use the car, maintaining the break-in speed.
• On the third day, change the oil and filter again.
• Further replacement is recommended to be performed 2 times earlier than usual. That is, you always replace after 10 km, then this time do it after 5 thousand km.

Important: changing the oil with the old filter does not make any sense, because all the soot, all the dirt, the filter has collected on itself and when operating the car with the old filter, something will inevitably get into the new oil. And it will lose its purity. Therefore, change the oil, immediately change the filter.

After completing all these procedures, you can be sure that your engine is clean. To some, this method will seem time-consuming and expensive. Just remember how much it will cost to repair a failed internal combustion engine, and you have to think that all questions and doubts will disappear by themselves.

In addition, it should be noted that such a procedure must be done once, and then, when you use the same oil, change it in time, flushing is no longer required.

An economical way to flush your engine during an oil change

The method is dirty, requires thorough preparation, but faster and cheaper than the previous one.

First, drain the used lubricant and remove the dirty filter. Start slowly pouring new product with the filter removed and the oil plug open. Watch what liquid flows out. First, dirty, waste residues of the old oil will be poured out.

As soon as clean oil appears from the socket where the filter is installed, this hole should be closed with something. Continue pouring until a clear, clear liquid emerges from under the drain hole.

As soon as clean oil appears from below, install a new filter in its place and tighten the drain plug of the pan. Now you can fill in new oil in the usual way, up to the mark. This procedure takes 20 percent more oil.

But on the other hand, the engine is washed cleanly. Perform the next replacement a little earlier - after 6-7 thousand mileage. And then as written in the instructions for the car.

Try to use the brands of oils that are recommended by the engine manufacturer, then you will not have to flush the engine when changing the oil. The motor will serve you faithfully and will not let you down at the most inopportune moment.